PANDACAN GIANTS. The problem with setting a place apart as an important heritage zone is when commercial structures tower above monuments and ancestral houses making us forget their cultural value, and their legends isolated from the world. The Pandacan I knew was its view from the Nagtahan flyover as the petroleum city by the Pasig River.
A recent walking tour into this old Manila neighborhood revealed that beyond those huge oil storage tanks is a heritage district that was home to historical and cultural giants, Ladislao Bonus, Francisco Balagtas, Jacinto Zamora, pre-War ancestral houses, and the twin statues of the infant Jesus that are venerated in separate churches, both claiming the title as the Sto. Niño de Pandacan.
THE LITTLE VENICE OF MANILA. The barrio of Pandacan was named after the pandan plantation that thrived near the riverbank. Just like the scenes in the canals of Venice, residents of this farming village used slender wooden bancas as their means of transportation to get around town through the meandering esteros leading to the Pasig River. This earned Pandacan the sobriquet as the little Venice of Manila.
Originally a part of the Sampaloc District, Pandacan didn’t become an independent parish until 1712 when the bucolic village began building a permanent shrine for its Sto. Nino.
STO. NIÑO DE PANDACAN. Legend is told that when the wooden image of the Infant Jesus was recovered from a muddy pool where carabaos wallowed, the village elders brought it to its parish in Sampaloc. The strange thing was, it kept reappearing to the site where is was discovered. The Franciscan friar Francisco del Rosario built the first parish church in 1732 with the Sto. Nino enshrined in its main altar.
Generations of village folks attributed numerous miracles to their beloved icon. In the turbulent year of 1896, the Spanish authorities decreed Pandacan under the Juez de Cuchillo upon learning to be a hotbed of the revolution. On the day when the cannons were aimed to bomb the village, a child appeared floating above the artillery positioned in Nagtahan. The commanding officer pushed back the attack. Similar miracles took place in 1911 and 1941, when the village was spared from massive fires and World War II bombings. Another popular legend tells about a boy with curly hair and smeared with dirt on his face would be seen walking around the streets and the church patio. The people would offer him food because they believed that the boy was a manifestation of the Holy Child.
BULING-BULING FIESTA. January is the month the Sto. Niño throughout the country. In Pandacan, the third Sunday of January is a celebration of thanksgiving for the miracles of the Sto. Niño through a dance procession called the Buling-buling. During the fiesta, the villagers donned in their Sunday best to join the procession and families would set out their household image of the Sto. Niño in a makeshift altar right in front of their house. The first Buling-buling dance procession was held in the 1800 and lasted until World War II. It was revived in the 1970s and practiced until to this today.
The star of the Buling-Biling is the centuries-old image of the Holy Child carried on a silver carroza. Carved in dark wood similar to the Black Nazarene of Quiapo and the Black Madonna of Antipolo, it suggests that the statue must have also came from Mexico through the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade.
EBONY AND IVORY STO. NIÑO. Not too many people know that there is another image of the Sto. Niño in Pandacan. This image of the Holy Child was carved in ivory and was brought by the Franciscans to Pandacan in 1760. When the Iglesia Filipina Independiente or Aglipayan Church broke away from Vatican in 1902, revolutionary priests sequestered the parish church of Pandacan from the Franciscans until in 1906 when the Supreme Court ruled that all properties of the Catholic Church that were occupied by the Aglipayans had to be returned to their respective Archdiocese and friar orders.
The Aglipayan took with them the ivory image of the Sto. Niño and brought it into their church as an object of veneration. During the yearly Buling-Buling fiesta, the ivory Sto. Niño would join its ebony twin in the dance procession.
ROMUALDEZ HOUSE. Right across Pandacan Church is the Romualdez House. This well-preserve bahay-na-bato was built around the 1920s. It was home to Pandacan’s illustrious resident and Cabeza de Barangay, Daniel Romualdez. On the street level are the grilled windows and double doors guarded by lion statues, each holding a monogram. The family crest is etched on a plaque next to the main door.
The second floor has wide voladas or the cantilevered walkway that runs along the window side around the house. In the olden days, servants used the galeria volada to go from room to room while the main floor is exclusive for the masters of the house. Floral patterns punctured the eaves to serve as vents are also repeated in the volada. The second floor windows have metal canopies called media aguas that provide protective shade from sun and rain. The transoms above the windows have traceries that are traditionally called espejong calado.
PANDACAN ANCESTRAL HOUSES. Right next to the Romualdez House, is a charming post-war townhouse. The ground floor has a couple of stores and second floor can be accessed through stone stairs on the right. The capiz windows on the second floor is protected from the elements by metal awnings or media aguas that are decorated by tin cutouts on its edge. Its roof is topped by a spire. I wonder if that served as a lightning rod or for decorative purposes only. Compared to its next door neighbor, this house is rotting away.
Also along the same street is the Musser/Thelmo House. Also built around the 1920s, it is dominated by red fence from the street. Beyond the arched gate is the view of the balcony, supported by concrete Solomonica columns. In its hey day, it housed the sound studio and laboratory of the Manila Talkatone Studios that introduced the first talking pictures to the country. The house is familiar for it became in different occasions a movie set for local films and television series.
LADISLAO BONUS. Next to the Musser/Thelmo House is a historical marker to Ladislao Bonus. Born in Pandacan in June 27, 1854. Bonus was referred to as the Father of Philippine Opera for organizing an opera company compose entirely of Tagalog performers. He also organized the Marikina Orchestra, the Pasig Band, and the Arevalo Band that became the official band of the Revolutionary Government in Malolos. His famous musical scores were for the zarzuela, Sandugong Panaginip, Recuerdos a la Patria with lyrics by Jose Rizal, and the Triumphal March for the First Philippine Assemble.
To commemorate Pandacan’s homegrown musical genius, a historical marker was installed along the street, on the site of Bonus’ ancestral house. Above the bronze plaque is a low relief by classical sculptor Anastacio T. Caedo. Professor Caedo assisted National Artist Guillermo Tolentino in creating his iconic works such as the Monumento and the U.P. Oblation.
PLAZA JACINTO ZAMORA. Another historical giant from Pandacan was Padre Jacinto Zamora who was born on August 14, 1853 in a house along San Luis Street. Zamora was part of the Gomburza triumvirate, priests who were implicated in the Cavite Mutiny of 1872.
As a student in San Juan de Letran, Zamora led a student protest in 1860 that resulted to being locked up in his quarters for two months but that did not affect his way into priesthood. He served the parishes of Marikina, Pasig and Lipa later became an examiner of new priest at the Manila Cathedral. He was finishing his doctorate in canon law at the University of Sto. Tomas when he was arrested and executed in Bagumbayan. The site of Zamora’s ancestral house was made into a plaza dedicated to the martyred priest.
FRANCISCO BALAGTAS. The poet Francisco Balagtas was born in Bigaa, Bulacan on August 2, 1788. He later change his name to Baltazar after the decree of Governor-General Narciso Claveria that all indios must use Spanish surnames. He worked as an errand boy to the Trinidad family in Tundo when he was 11. He finished his studies at the Colgeio de San Jose, a Jesuit school at age 24. He earned a living as a lyricist.
Balagtas migrated to Pandacan in 1835 where he fell in love with a local lass named Maria Asuncion Rivera. A rival have him imprisoned. In jail, he wrote his iconic Florante at Laura, which he dedicated to Celia using the initials M.A.R. The metrical romance, which had a full title as Pinagdaanang Buhay ni Florante at Laura sa Cahariang Albania – Quinuha sa Madlang Cuadro Historico or Pinturang Nagsasabing nang manga Nagyari nang Unang Panahon sa Imperyo ng Grecia – at Tinula ng Isang Matouain sa Versong Tagalog became a favorite of Jose Rizal who brought a copy with him while sailed away from Manila and Apolinario Mabini who transcribed the entire piece from memory years later to ensure its perpetuation as written literature. A plaza dedicated to the literary genius, Balagtas was built to honor the adopted son of Pandacan.
EPILOGUE: PANDACAN WALKING TOUR. Pandacan today is far from being Manila’s little Venice or how Balagtas has romanticized this riverine barrio in his poem.
A self-paced walking tour around Pandacan is not sightseeing but all about feeling, learning and remembering our cultural heritage and sharing them to the rest of the world.
– Feast of the Candelaria
02/02/2020