Eulogio Rodriguez Ancestral House

In 2005, we noticed the massive bahay-na-bato near the Montalban town plaza in Rizal. Although it looked uninhabited, the stately ancestral house was in excellent condition but at that time we have no one to ask about the house and so we missed the chance to see “what’s inside.”

We found a historical marker stating that the house belonged to Montalban’s most illustrious resident. In fact, proud as they are of their town’s homegrown political figure, the people of Montalban renamed their town after the house’s original resident –Eulogio Rodriguez Sr.   

Eulogio “Amang” Rodriguez Sr.

Eulogio “Amang” Rodriguez has a life-long career as a public servant. He was elected Senate President from 1952 to 1963.

Prior to being senator, Amang has held different appointed and elected positions in government as Mayor of Manila (1940), Secretary of Agriculture and Commerce (1934), Congressman of 2^nd district of Rizal (1925, 1931, and 1935), representative of Nueva Viscaya (1924), Governor of Rizal (1916), and President of Montalban (1909).

Although looked upon as an important political figure in the local government and in both Houses of Congress, Amang has humble beginnings as a farmer. Being a farmer, he preferred building the house for his family near his farm.

While the huge track of land behind the old house is now part of a cemetery, the Rodriguez Ancestral House has been converted into a private museum showcasing mementoes and collections of the longest serving Senate President.

The Ancestral House

During our unplanned visit to the Rodriguez Ancestral House, we met Jojo at silong who cordially led to what was then the second floor living quarters. Just as we expected based from the imposing exterior, the upper floor has an airy interior.

Just like in most traditional bahay-na-bato, the sala occupy most part of the second floor. The sala is separated from the dining room and further beyond it is the kitchen which we were told is still being used on certain occasions. There were two bedrooms but it was off limits during our visit.

Jojo told us that the interior is maaliwalas not only because of translucent capiz windows around the house but also due to the selected pieces furniture displayed in the spacious rooms. Jojo explained that most of the heirloom furniture has been distributed among Amang’s children and grandchildren.

Those items selected for the exhibit however were mostly artifacts and memorabilia that inform visitors about Amang’s career as a public servant.

Rodriguez Museum

The Rodriguez Musuem shares space with one of Amang’s grand children who held office as  an elected government official at the entresuelo.  According to Jojo, The upper floor is still used for caucuses and assemblies. There have been occassions when the museum artifacts are being rearranged or temporarily removed from the exhibit areas to avoid damage.  

On our visit, we viewed interesting museum pieces quartered in the house like the commissioned paintings and furniture sets, rare vintage photographs, and other personal effects including a collection of baston displayed in an antique bastonera and another set of canes encased in a glass drawer. 

The chairs and desk commissioned with official seal is the focal point of the sala. The senate president’s desk is recreated complete with tobacco boxes, inkwell, and a gavel.

Car Plate No. 3

On our way out of the museum we passed by again the cavernous silong which served as a massive storeroom for the season’s harvest. Amang’s official vehicle while serving as Senate President, still bearing the plate number 3 is displayed in the silong near the zaguan.

Wawa Dam

MONTALBAN GORGE. Wawa River cuts through the primeval rock after the thousand-year process of erosion to form the majestic limestone walls. There is also the local folklore which tells that the Montalban Gorge was created by the mighty Bernardo Carpio. According to the legend, Bernardo was a love child of Infanta Jimena and Don Sancho Diaz. When the forbidden love affair between his sister Infanta and political rival Sancho was discovered by the King Alfonso, he ordered the imprisonment of Infanta and the murder of Sancho.

The young Bernardo was able to escape the furious King Alfonso only to be discovered later. But the boy has grown as a giant. The cruel king wanted Bernardo to suffer the same fate as with his parents so he ordered a shaman to have him locked-up until he meets his death deep within the hallows of the mountain in Montalban. The shaman was able to lure Bernardo into the trap. It is said that whenever an earthquake occurs, it is caused by Bernardo trying to escape from the bowels of the mountain.

NAUUMPUGANG BATO.  A sequel to the legend revealed that Bernardo broke free by successfully pushing the grinding mountains of Pamitinan and Binacayan apart.

Water gushed out from the other side of the mountain which formed the river channels of San Mateo and Marikina. Below the narrow gap between the amazing limestone mountains, Wawa Dam was constructed by the American in 1909 as the primary water source for Manila.

WHERE THE ROAD ENDS, THE HIKING BEGINS. The trail to Wawa Dam involved walking on a rocky ascending trail with steep drop-offs on one side and bamboo and nipa houses on the other. These dwellings along the sides of the trail made brisk business by selling turon and samalamig to hikers.

As the winding mountain trail became narrower, we could see from one side the steep slope and the running river further enhanced by huge white boulders where the locals have built makeshift huts of bamboo and nipa that tourists and campers could use for a minimal rental fee. A few walks further, we had a view of the amazing Wawa Dam also with huts huddled close together at the foot of dam looking similar to the luncheon scene at Villa Escudero.

OLD OBSERVATION DECK. On our way to the upper part of the dam, we walked through two tunnels carved out from the mountain’s limestone wall to reach the old observation deck. Here, we had spectacular views of the majestic gorge, the gorgeous upper river and the narrow chasm.

The height of the deck from the lake below is a dizzying vertical drop but Howie Severino made history recently perhaps to be the first journalist and blogger to have jumped off from the deck’s ledge into the upper river. It may be a feat for Howie but for a group of local children, diving off from the observation deck is part of their swimming routine in Wawa Dam.

WAWA RIVER. We crossed the iron bridge that connects the observation deck to the upper river. There were makeshift huts filled with families having picnic, friends exchanging stories, and even a group singing their hearts out around a videoke!

We were so excited to take a plunge into the river but we realized that we did the most unforgivable thing we’ve ever done for this trip of forgetting our bathing suit or at least to bringing extra clothes.

WAWA DAM. Wawa Dam ceased operation in the 1960’s when the Ipo-La Mesa-Angat watershed was established. Since its decommissioning, the dam’s lower river and upper lake were frequented by local tourists and campers for its ethereal beauty and extremely cheap almost free accommodation.

During summer months, the dam’s spillway is converted into a picnic area much like a version of the popular luncheon scene at Villa Escudero. Although the trip down to the picnic site close to foot of the dam is arduous but it cost practically nothing to enjoy the man-made falls. The water pouring from the reservoir in the upper lake to the dam wall and the gurgling water around the primordial rock boulders on the river provide a refreshing treat to the senses and to the spirit.

PAMITINAN CAVE. Tired and thirsty, we rested in one of the bamboo stalls selling sweet turon and ice-cold samalamig along the side of the trail. We asked the tindera about the Pamitinan Cave. She pointed at the limestone wall across her stall where two caves are visible from her stall’s window.

A year before the start of the 1896 Revolution, Andres Bonifacio with eight men fled to the mountains of Montalaban, to Pamintinan Cave on a Good Friday. Bonifacio inscribed on the cave wall what could have been the first cry of Philippine Independence. According to the local tourism office, the cave wall still bears the inscription Viva la Independencia Filipinas!

EPILOGUE. The Pamintinan Cave is just one of the several cave systems in the Montalban Gorge. Other caves are said to be where the Japanese soldiers have retreated and spent their last defense during the final days of World War II. A marker by the cave entrance is visible from the trail. Guided tours into the caves are arranged at the Montalban Tourism Office.