The Five Landmarks of Quiapo and A Gathering of Quiapo Heritage Lovers

 

 

 

Last May 10, the day after the 133^rd birthday of Gregoria de Jesus and during the 111^th death anniversary of Andres Bonifacio, I attended an open forum which was entitle “¿Quiapo Que Pasa?” at Bahay Nakpil-Bautista upon the invitation of Old Manila Walks’ Ivan Dy.

 

 

The event was about Quiapo’s cultural legacies particularly the preservation of the ancestral houses in the area. Prior to the open forum was a series of talks delivered by Architect Rene Mata, cultural adviser for the Manila mayor Ms. Gemma Cruz-Araneta, Quiapo cultural advocates Dr. Fernando Nakpil-Zialcita, Dr. Tess Obusan, Ivan Dy, and Architect Ten Ealdama.

 

 

Attendees composed of the concerned residents of Quiapo, the owners of Quiapo’s ancestral houses, representative from the government and heritage and tourism societies and non-Quiapo residents (that included me).

 

As a child, my parents would discourage me to go to Quiapo. They’re primary concern was for my safety since some decades ago Quiapo had a reputation of being the nest of notorious criminal activities.

 

Fortunately, this image of Quiapo is gradually fading away thanks to the efforts of the local government and police. Quiapo, despite being surrounded by dilapidated structures has now become a cultural center.

 

For it is only in Quiapo that we can see the existence of landmarks that showcase a synergy of cultures and all cultures blended together into this place rendering Quiapo the epitome of what makes us uniquely Filipino.       

 

 

 

The Quiapo Basilica 

 

The Quiapo Basilca is the center of the Filipino devotion to the Black Nazarene, a wooden image that has set off a culture of devotion unlike any other in the country. It has drawn countless of devotees, mostly commoners or “masa,”but as well as desperate professionals who would crowd the basilica on Fridays to pay homage and supplicate their immediate needs to the miraculous image of Christ. 

 

Every 9^th of the January, the image of the Nuestro Señor de Nazareno is brought out from the church into a rowdy procession attended mostly by the men folks.

 

 

 

 

The San Sebastian Church 

 

Touted as the only all-steel church in the world and the only Gothic church in the Philippines, the San Sebastian Church has been claimed to be a handy work of world famous engineer Alexander Gustav Eiffel, the man behind the Eiffel Tower and steel frames of the Statue of Liberty.

 

However, no significant evidence has proved that Mr. Eiffel has worked hands-on in the designing of the church. Although, robbed with its Eiffel-fame, the San Sebastian Church remains as a one-of-a-kind structure that stands only in the Philippines. 

 

 

 

  

The Ocampo Pagoda 

 

An unusual structure to stand on the once residentially-zoned Quiapo, the Ocampo Pagoda is a fine example of an East-meets-West architecture. Commissioned by Don Jose Ocampo to decorate his garden, the structure shows oriental elements intricately carved on what looks like a medieval castle in Europe. 

 

 

 

 

 

Mosque del Globo del Oro 

 

Located within the Muslim district of Manila, the Golden Mosque was initially built by then first lady Imelda Marcos in 1976 to impress visiting Libian President Muammar Khadafy who wanted to pray in a mosque as soon as he arrives in Manila. However, for some reason, the state visit of Khadafy was cancelled.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bahay Nakpil-Bautista

 

The Bahay-Nakpil Bautista became both historically and culturally significant because of its former occupants and for its architecture.

 

A typical bahay-na-bato, Bahay Nakpil-Baustista served as home to Dr. Ariston Bautista and wife Doña Petrona Nakpil. Doña Pertona’s brother Julio Nakpil and wife Gregoria de Jesus (widow of Andres Bonifacio) also lived in the mezzanine of the house.

 

 

Built in 1914 by Filipino architect Arcadio Arellano, the house stands as a fine example of Philippine architecture during a period when Art Nouveau is being incorporated into the making of houses and buildings.

 

Interestingly, the Black Nazarene from the Quiapo Basilica across the street was sheltered in this house during the outbreak of World War II.

 

 

 

The May 10 Assembly 

 

Several issues and proposed projects aimed at maximizing Quiapo’s tourism potential were introduced during the open forum. They ranged from programs as basic as advocacy projects to complex activities involving the participation of the different sectors such as tapping the sources to fund the preservation of the ancestral houses.

 

 

What became clear to me is that a well-attended and well-represented meeting like this only shows that we are serious about preserving our Filipino heritage. I’m positive that all these initiatives concerning the preservation of Quiapo’s legacies will be achieved by our generation alone.

 

However, I believe that it is also equally important that we focused our efforts onto encouraging, informing, educating, etc., etc. the next generation to appreciate our culture and preserve our national heritage. Otherwise the initiatives achieved by this generation will become just another part of our history.

 

 

Related link:

A House in Quiapo by Senor Enrique

 

Monuments to Bonifacio’s Cry

Historians still debate over the exact dates and locations of the famous Cry of Bonifacio. This historic event was the day when 1,000 Katipuneros gathered together and tore up their cedulas in a collective gesture of defiance that marked the start of the Philippine Revolution. 

Those who were influenced by the bestselling History of the Filipino People by Teodoro Agoncillo are convinced that Andres Bonifacio’s famous Cry of Balintawak did not take place in Balintawak but in so many kilometers away in Pugad Lawin near Balara as the gospel truth. However, for some historians like National Artist Nick Joaquin believed that the “Cry” took place at Balintawak in Caloocan. 

The venue for this historic event, aside from Balintawak and Pugad Lawin, can also be in Kangkong, Bahay Toro, Pasong Tamo, etc., etc. Also, the date of the historic event is equally confusing. History books have presented varying dates claiming that the “Cry” occurred from the days on or between 20^th to the 26^th of August 1896.

 

According to Ambeth Ocampo, all these conflicting accounts are reminiscences of participants involved in the Philippine Revolution of 1896 written or orally transmitted in the 1920s and 1930s. These accounts came from first hand experiences of Pio Valenzuela, Gregoria de Jesus, Julio Nakpil, and Santiago Alvarez. 

 

Perhaps this has resulted to several monuments erected in different sites to commemorate the Cry of Bonifacio. 

 

The first known monument that was unveiled at the site where the “Cry of Balintawak” was believed to have taken place -Balintawak. The statue was given the titled “Ala-ala ng bayang Filipino sa mga Bayani ng ‘96”(Memorial of the Filipino Nation to the Heroes of ’96). This statute has been moved in front of Vinzons Hall in the University of the Philippines. 

Another monument was erected in Caloocan. This bronze masterpiece was painstakingly researched by National Artist Guillermo Tolentino and it is popularly referred to as the Monumento. 

A small plaza commemorating the Cry of Pugad Lawin stands in the middle of a crowded residential area in Barangay Toro, Project 8, Quezon City. This tableau depicting Katipuneros in their defiant act of tearing their cedulas was commissioned by National Artist Napoleon Abueva.

Regardless of this controversy, it remains clear from various first hand accounts that the gathering of men and women with the common desire to be free did take place. This Cry of Bonifacio is an outright symbol of the revolution against the Spanish oppressors. 

Related link: From Vinzons Hall to Monumento: Retracing the Image of Bonifacio in our Consciousness

A World Treasure in Las Piñas

 

 

The Las Piñas Bamboo Organ is the only pipe organ in the world made of bamboo. It has survived war, neglect, earthquakes as well as new fashions and innovations in musical technology. This unique musical instrument has become a precious source of local community and national pride. 

 

 

The Antique Statue that was purchased for Two Dozen of Eggs

 

The bamboo organ’s home is a romantic stone church built from 1810 to 1819 and dedicated to St. Joseph, whose antique statue on the main altar was purchased for two dozen of eggs. Inside the church are stained capiz windows, nara pews, bamboo ceiling and carriage lamps on bamboo stands. Noted architects Francisco “Bobby” Manosa and Ludwig Alvarez renovated the church from 1971 to 1975 in preparation for Las Pinas’ bicentennial. 

 

 

On the church grounds is a statue of Father Diego Cera sculpted by National Artist Napoleon Abueva. 

 

 

Part of the church convent was converted into a museum. Upon entering the porter’s lobby a church bell donated by the Queen of Spain greets visitors. 

 

  

 

 

 

The Bamboo Organ

 

The Recollect friar who built both church and the organ was Father Diego Cera, an Argonese from Huesca. Relatives remember him as “Monsen Canbas”, Mr. Bamboo was an organist, awarded scientist, civic leader. In 1794, a year after his arrival in the Philippines, Cera made what was probably the first piano built in the country. Convinced it had no equal in Spain or England, the instrument was sent to Isabel II, Queen of Spain as a gift.

 

 

Although he would have noticed portable musical instruments of bamboo made in the Philippines, Cera’s first important experiment was around 1789 when he used a cane for one stop in an organ he was constructing for the Recollect Church in Intramuros, Manila. By 1816, Cera began work on the Las Piñas organ which took eight years to complete.

 

Organs are progenitors of the modern music synthesizer. The baroque bamboo organ features seven short metal pipes called parajitos because when filled with water they make bird sounds, as well as three long bamboo pipes known as tambor because they imitate kettle-drum rumbling.

 

 

Information source: Felice Sta. Maria

The Historic Kalabaw

One noticeable feature of the Aguinaldo Mansion is the presence of carabao decor in several furniture and parts of the house. There must be a reason why Aguinaldo used the carabao as a prominent figure to decorate his mansion.

By nature, carabaos are generally docile animals but they can be deadly when pushed to anger. According to Ambeth Ocampo, General Emilio Aguinaldo admired this quality and surrounded himself with carabao décor in his mansion in Cavite. One of his chairs has a carabao head as a backrest. A smiling carabao supports the famous Independence balcony.

 

 

In a battle between Filipino and Americans in April of 1899, General Lawton’s men were shouting at Filipino troops when a herd of carabaos attacked the Americans. The American forces could not explain why the beasts did not attack the Filipinos.

 

This was not an isolated case, since another carabao attack occurred in Meycauayan. Major Putnam Bradlee Strong, who served in Mac Arthur’s staff, related that a herd of carabaos ran straight into their battery, ruined their battle formation, broke the leg of one soldier and gored a handful of men.What was surprising was that after the rampage, the carabao became tame once more.

 

A large illustration in Harper’s History of the War in the Philippines (published 1900) shows this carabao attack, and its section on the carabao says, “Decidedly, the carabao deserves to be made the subject of a character study.” 

 

 

Perhaps Aguinaldo was right in glorifying the carabao which, by sheer instinct, knew that invading Americans were the “enemy.” Thus, it deserves its place as the National Animal.

 

Information source: Ambeth Ocampo, Looking Back

 

The Sentimental Aguinaldo Mansion

  

The Philippine flag flying on poles mounted to street light post along major roads is now a common sight. This is to remind the people that in the coming weeks, Filipinos will be celebrating its independence from the 300 plus years of Spanish rule on June 12.

 

As a kick off for this important occasion, Traveler on Foot recounts his experience during a visit at the Aguinaldo Mansion in Cavite, the place where the monumental event that changed the course of our history as a nation took place some 110 years ago.

 

 

  

 

The Mansion turned National Shrine

 

Along the Camino Real, the royal highway connecting the Spanish naval headquarters in Cavite with the Philippine capital at Intramuros, Manila, stands the ancestral home of Emilio Aguinaldo. It was fashioned in 1849 as a usual two storey bahay-na-bato with thatch roofing, and sliding windows of capiz-shell panes. 

 

 

This is in this house where Emilio Aguinaldo was born on 22^nd of March 1869. It is in this same house 29 years later from the center of the living room window, Philippine Independence was proclaimed at about four o’clock in the afternoon on June 12, 1898. Elderly Ambrosio Rianzares Bautista read out the document before a jubilant crowd, with 29-year-old General Emilio Aguinaldo, revolutionary head of the government at his side.

 

 

During the American occupation, Aguinaldo reworked the house continuously. He incorporated symbols of the revolutionary period as architectural ornaments so that the Philippine Revolution would never be forgotten. 

 

He also added a watchtower and carabao carried “Independence Balcony” that had become well-known features of the mansion. A family wing of bedroom for his children was also added.

 

 

The watchtower was said to be the favorite viewing spot of Aguinaldo. From its window, the skyline of Manila can be seen on a clear day. Below the tower a clapboard bedroom called the tower suite was the General’s favorite retreat during his later years. 

 

  

 

On June 12, 1963, Aguinaldo donated the house to the Philippine Government, entrusting that it “to perpetuate the spirit of the Revolution of 1896… to conserve and vivify the nationalism that moved our country to rise in arms.”  In the following year, the mansion was declared as a National Shrine.   

 

 

 

The Revelation of Aguinaldo’s Inventive Mind

 

The ground floor known in old houses as the zaguan is where the bowling alley and air raid shelter are located. They are now joined by permanent exhibits and relics relating to Aguinaldo’s military and political exploits.

 

The house is a revelation of its owner’s inventive mind. Around the house are several concealed secret passages, exits and storage areas such as wooden dining table top in the kitchen that conceals a passage way to the air raid shelter built below the ground.

 

 

Some pieces of furniture were designed by the Aguinaldo himself. These unique furniture ranges from a simple armchair with leg rest to secret compartments intended for hiding documents or weapons.  

 

The second floor living quarters is dedicated to the memory of the first Philippine President, Emilio Aguinaldo and his love affair with the country. Seen on the polished wooden parquet floors and hardwood pillars, and ornamented ceiling are recurring patterns of nationalistic symbols.       

 

 

 

  

 

The General’s Final Resting Place

 

General Emilio Aguinaldo y Famy died on February 6, 1964, at the age of 94. He lived long enough to see his country attain the independence with a government based on democratic principles. His tomb lies on the grounds of his historic home facing the river.  

 

 

 

The Aguinado Mansion presents a glimpse into the architectural interest of Aguinaldo, his dedication to the veterans of the revolution, and his commitment as a democratic leader and a Filipino. 

 

Information source: Felice Prudente-Sta. Maria, Visions of the Possible