The Post Office by the Pasig River

The Post Office was an important facility in pre-war Manila. The newly established American Government needed official communication for governance and commerce. But why build a Post Office beside the Pasig? 

According to Paolo Alcazaren, “in those days riverbeds or streamers transported the mail, along with most goods. Airplanes and even buses had to wait a few decades more to be used with any regularity.” The goods were unloaded on muelles or wharves. The vibrancy of those Glory Days by the Muelles  led to the construction of structures like warehouses, banks, the custom house and the post office on the river banks. 

The Post Office was one of several government buildings envisioned by the famous urban planner Daniel Burnham. Burnham designed Manila after Washington D.C. Alcazaren noted  that “he (Burnham) placed the national capitol at the Luneta with supporting offices around it, and even more government offices in a string composed of the national library, the national museum, the national exposition building (our Smithsonian), and finally the national post office by the river.” 

US-trained Filipino architect Juan Arellano designed the Post Office. It was his obra maestra in the neo-classic expression along with the original Jones Bridge and the old Legislative Building (formerly the National Museum now known as the National Arts Gallery). 

 Completed in 1931, the five-storey concrete structure used columns and capitals of the Ionic order. Adapted for the tropics, its rectangular mast with two semi-circular drums on each end has an atrium in the middle that provides natural ventilation and light. The highly decorated ceiling and marble wainscoting assumed to be the handiwork of the sculptor Isabelo Tampingco, whom Arellano often worked with. 

The Post Office by the Pasig River won praises from as far as New York City –from the famous architects Mckim, Mead and White (architects of the Chicago Columbian Exposition, the Boston Library, and majority of the neo-classic building in New York).  

Information source: Paolo Alcazaren from an essay in Pasig: River of Life

The Aborted Plan of Daniel Burnham

The United States occupation of the Philippines in 1898 ushered a new phase in Philippine architecture. America established an American-style of government and urban planning that served the needs of secular education and public services.  

In 1904, the Chicago-fame architect Daniel H. Burnham came to the Philippines on an invitation from the government to plan a modern Manila. The city then had a population of only a hundred thousand, but Burnham envisioned it as a metropolis inhabited by millions, with multi-laned avenues radiating from its central districts.  He proposed that the old moat around Intramuros be reclaimed, that Luneta be enlarged into a 30 acre-park, and that a seaside boulevard be built from the Manila waterfront to Cavite.  

Burnham’s vision for Manila was a government center occupying all of Wallace Field, which extends from Luneta to the present Taft Avenue. The Philippines Capitol was to rise on the Taft Avenue end of the field, facing toward the sea, and would form, with the buildings of different government bureaus and departments, a mighty quadrangle, lagoon in the center and a monument to Rizal at its Luneta end. 

The Burnham Plan, which the London Times called “a miracle by an Alladin,” was approved by the Philippine Legislature, which agreed to set aside two million pesos every year for the execution of the plan. When the fund had reached some 16 million, however, President Manuel L. Quezon decided to use the money on irrigation projects instead. Quezon noted that rice fields were more important than fine structures for Manila. 

Of Burnham’s proposed government center, only three units were built: the Legislative Building (originally intended as the National Library) and the building of the Finance (currently the Museum of the Filipino People) and Agricultural (Tourism Department) departments, which were completed on the eve of the War. By then, Mr. Quezon had doomed the Burnham Plan by creating a new capital outside Manila, which was named after him –Quezon City. 

The Legislative Building was started early in the 1920s. Construction was sporadic, lasting until 1926, and cost about six million pesos –a bargain price today. When the building was half-finished, the Philippines solons decreed that it was to house, not the national library, but the legislative session halls and offices. Later, the national library was allowed to occupy the basement. 

According to Nick Joaquin, the building (Legislative) along with the old Jones Bridge was undoubtedly our happiest achievement in the neo-classic manner. For a moment in our history, the style of the Romans suited our temper perfectly and we created a structure that had grace and dignity. The postwar edifice still glows with the serene spirit of the original and stands as a memorial to Burnham’s glorious dream and to the days when we felt like noble Romans, gravely founding a republic. 

Information sources:

Tuklas Sining edited by Nicanor Tiongson

Almanac of the Manilenos by Nick Joaquin

The First Three Bridges over Pasig River

The first three bridges that spanned across the Pasig River were the Puente Grande, Puente de Colgante and Puente de Ayala. 

Puente Grande 

Built in 1632, The Puente Grande was the first bridge across Pasig River. It was built to connect Intramuros and Binondo. The bridge was renovated several times after its stone foundations were heavily damaged by earthquakes. It was renamed Puente de España after the earthquake of 1863. Today, the bridge is known as the Jones Bridge.

Pre-war Jones Bridge was stylish with three flattened arches and much ornamentation. A masterpiece of Juan Arellano, the bridge was completed in 1922. Paolo Alcazaren describes, ”the piers of the bridge were festooned with statuary of mermen on dolphins. The bridge balustrades were ornately molded in pre-cast faux stone and lighting was generously provided from electric globes on eleborate cast-iron poles… large plinths marked the foot of the structure at both ends. The four rusticated plinths bore allegorical sculptures in classical compositions.”

The Juan Arellano-designed bridge was heavilty damaged during the Liberation for Manila. The bridge was rebuilt in spartan steel and concrete. None of the statuary of mermen on dolphin and allegorical sculptures are present in today’s Jones Bridge. 

 

Puente de Colgante

The construction of the Puente Colgante was completed in 1852. The bridge linked the district of Arroceros (the area surrounding the Metropolitan Theater and Manila City Hall) to the Quinta Market in Quiapo. Probably the first toll-way, authorities charged a toll fee for both pedestrians and vehicles.

The name colgante came form the root word colgar which in Spanish means to suspend. As the name suggest, Puente Colgante was the first suspension bridge to be built in the country. It is known today as the Quezon Bridge.  

 

Puente de Ayala

 

Named after a prominent Creole family, the Puente de Ayala was opened to traffic in 1880.  It connected the San Miguel district to Malate and Ermita.

The bridge also served Isla de Convalescencia, the island in the Pasig River where the orphanage of Hospicio de San Jose is located.

Information sources: Pasig: River of Life

Historical Markers in Manila’s San Nicholas District

Houses in the San Nicholas District of Manila had their share in Philippine history. Like most houses in the area, most of them were rebuilt, razed by fire, left to decay or gave way to modernization. Today, silent historical markers were placed on or near the original site to inform those who take the time and effort of dropping by the area to fulfill ones curiosity. 

  

 

The Leyba House along San Fernando Street was the site where Jose Rizal’s  mother, Dona Teodora Alonzo spent her last days until her death in 1911. Like most houses in the area, this house was razed by fire. Along Estraude Street is the house which the Rizal family rented after the remains of Jose Rizal were exhumed from Paco Cemetery. The house was razed by fire. Today, a modern building stands on the site.   

 

 

The house of Dr. Pio Valenzuela, a member of the Supreme Council of the Katipunan once stood along Calle Lavezares, held his medical practice here offered free to the poor. A historic maker was placed near the site that indicates the Valenzuela house to be once the secret printing office the revolutionary paper “Ang Kalayaan.”  

 

 

 

The Katipunan mislead the Spanish authorities by indicating the the Kalayaan is edited by Marcelo H. del Pilar and that Yokohama, Japan as the place of publication. But in truth, it was Emilio Jacinto who served as its editor. The maiden issue was relased in March of 1896 with detialed incidences of abuse by friars and civil employees. Copies were distributed in Manila and the provinces. However, due to lack of supplies, printing types were stolen by Katipuneros working for Diario de Manila. This incident led to the discovery by the Spanish authorities of the Kalayaan. 

 

The house also provided temporary protection to Andres Bonifacio’s widow Gregoria de Jesus and their son. It was also in this house where Bonifacio’s infant son passed away to an illness.  

 

Another interesting location along Calle Madrid was at ahouse numbered as 28-D. It was in this house were Gregoria de Jesus was kept by her parents from marrying his novio Andres Bonifacio in December of 1893 for the reason that she was a minor. Eventually, the Supremo and her Lakambini were married in nearby Binondo Church.    

 

The house where Antonio Luna was born still stands along Calle Urbiztondo.   

 

  

 

The house of Mason Faustino Villaruel at No. 8 Calle Asuncion served as meeting place for the members of the Walana Lodge. It was in this house where an auxiliary lodge for women mason was founded. Rosario Villaruel (Don Faustino’s daughter) became the first woman mason in the country. Masonic activities and secret meetings held at the Faustino house were made to appear banquets and ladies’ party.     

 

 

Information source: Three Centuries of Binondo Architecture by Lorelie De Viana 

 

The Fortress of Empire: Fort Santiago

The old fortress of the Spanish Empire, Fort Santiago was named after Santiago Matamoro (St. James Slayer of the Moors). Guarding the entrance of the Pasig River from Manila Bay, this formidable fort was built on the site of Rajah Sulayman’s original wooden fort.    

 

 

Fort Santiago may not be as old as Cebu’s Fort San Pedro (the first and oldest colonial fort built in the country), but it had significantly served as military headquarters of Spain, British, United States and Japan during different eras in our history. 

 

 

The arched entrances, the silent moats, the dimly-lit tunnels and the solid walls of its dungeons stood witness to the Tales of Death from the Dungeons and Jail Cells of Fort Santiago. 

 

 

Plaza Moriones

 

Fort Santiago tour begins at Plaza Moriones, a public promenade until it was fenced off by the Spanish military in 1864. Located at the left side of the park is the Baluartillo de San Francisco Javier. It was built by Governnor Sabiniano Manrique de Lara to protect the old postern gate when the first Governor’s Palace was located inside the fort until 1654. Its chambers stored military supplies. Today, it houses the Intramuros Visitor’s Center.

 

Baluartillo de San Francisco Javier is adjoined by a tunnel that leads to the Reducto de San Francisco Javier, which now enshrines the image of the Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. 

 

 

Before crossing the other side of the plaza, we passed by the American barracks where Ferdinand Marcos was imprisoned.

 

Across the other side of Plaza Moriones is the ruins of the Almacenes Reales or the Royal Warehouse where the goods brought in by the galleons were stored. A chapel dedicated to the Nuestra Señora de la Encarnacion used to stand at the far end of the Almacenes. It served as chapel for the military and audencia. It was destroyed during a great fire and was never rebuilt.

 

Passing by the picnic ground is the Artelleria de Maestranza or royal foundry where the Spanish cast cannons and ammunitions. The bronze statue of King Carlos IV at Plaza Roma was cast on the Maestranza.

 

 

 

Plaza Armas

 

 

A small bridge over the moat leads visitors to the main gate of the fort. The only original structures at the entrance are the two sentinels located at the sides. The rest were blown up during the 1945 Liberation.  

 

Guarding its flanks were the Medio Baluarte de San Francisco on the river side and Baluarte de San Miguel on the bay.

 

 

Plaza Armas was the fort’s main square. It is surrounded by military barracks. To the north side of the plaza was a barracks, which is the probable site of the wooden fort of Rajah Sulayman. On south side are the ruins of a Spanish barracks and building that was reconstructed to house the Rizal Shrine.

 

 

A postern leading to Pasig River located at the far north of the plaza called Postigo de la Nuestra Señora de Soledad was used by Governor Simon de Anda to escape from the British when the city was breached.

  

 

 

Near the postern is the chapel cell where Jose Rizal spent the nigh before he was led to his execution.

  

  

 

Baluarte de Santa Barbara

 

At the far end of Plaza Armas was the residence of the fort’s commander or Casa del Castellano. The dungeon below was the cellar where food supplies were kept. A terraced garden now occupies the site.  

 

 

Strategically located to overlook the bay and the river, Baluarte de Sta. Barbara was initially built as a wooden platform in 1593. Storage vaults and bomb-proof powder magazines were added in 1599.

 

 

A Rizaliana Exhibit featuring the furniture and personal effects of the Rizal family can be viewed from the upper floor of the bulwark. 

 

  

 

The Falsabraga de Sta. Barbara and half-moon shaped Media Naranjan were falls walls which protected the main bulwark in case of heavy bombardment form the river.

 

During World War II, Fort Santiago was renamed Hu Heiei by the Japanese Government. It became the headquarters of the dreaded Kempeitai or Japanese military police who according to legend imprisoned, tortured, drowned and executed numerous Filipinos in the fort’s notorious dungeons. 

 

 

A memorial cross known as the Shrine of Freedom marks the common grave of approximately 600 bodies of guerillas and civilians found inside the powder magazine of Baluarte de Sta. Barbara.

 

 

Information source: Fort Santiago brochure

 

Click here to begin at Plaza Roma.