We met Ivan Dy of Old Manila Walks one Friday afternoon at the steps of San Sebastian Church. He served as our guide in one of Manila’s oldest and history-filled districts– San Miguel.
Ivan was dressed in a yellow camisa de china with a hat made of dried upo.
He started us off with a history of Manila particularly how the districts surrounding the mouth of Pasig River (Intramuros, Binondo, San Nicolas, and San Miguel) developed into thriving communities during the Spanish and American periods. According to Ivan, Intramuros was the cultural and political core of the Spanish Empire in Asia. While Binondo and the surrounding areas developed into a bustling business center. The de buena familia flaunted their wealth and power by building their posh villas in San Miguel.
An All-Steel Church
San Sebastian Church is famous for being the only church in Asia that is made of steel. The idea of building an all-steel church was the solution to the frequent earthquakes that destroyed the first three churches.
Many have claimed that the San Sebastian Church share the same fame as with the Eiffel Tower and Statue of Liberty because like the last two engineering marvels, the San Sebastian Church was designed by Alexander Gustave Eiffel.
The answer to the question on “Who designed the San Sebastian Church?” was revealed to us by Ivan during our walking tour.
A Stolen Mansion
Next was a short walk towards the San Miguel district via the rear of Centro Escolar University. Presidential Security Guards greeted us at the gate of San Miguel. Security at the San Miguel area is tight because of one high profile resident- the President of the Philippines.
While at the gate, we saw a foreign couple asking the guards for directions to the Malacanang Palace. We invited the couple to join our walk to help them find their way to Malacanang. We dropped them off at Arlegui Street where the iron fence of the Palace can be seen.
We stopped at a colonial mansion along Arlegui Street. The Arlegui Guesthouse was preferred by Corazon Aquino and Fidel Ramos as their residence during their terms as President. It now serves as the extension office of the Press Secretary. We stayed at the mansion’s entrance gate while Ivan shares to us the controversy about the government’s acquisition of the house from its original owner.
Ivan narrated that the original owner of the house, the Laperal family were forcibly ejected by Marcos’ personnel and were not allowed to bring anything with them. Taking pictures of the mansion’s façade is not allowed.
The Old Executive Building
From Arlegui Street we walked to J.P. Laurel Street. Large houses line the road leading to the Malacanang Palace gate. Upon reaching the gate, we went through different security procedures from presenting identification cards and passing through a whole-body electronic scanner. A security tag (sticker) was attached to our digital camera.
Ivan led us to the iron portico of the old Executive Building. The old Executive Building was built in the 1920’s and houses the Malacanang Museum and Library. According to Ivan, the old Executive building is the most intact postwar building in the Malacanang complex. Much of the other buildings underwent several renovations including the Presidential Residence (the one seen on the 20 peso bill).
The ground floor presents Philippine history through photos, artworks and relics. Exhibits are grouped according to era in the different American colonial rooms. Emblems of the United States like the American eagle can be seen on the walls and arches since the building was built during the American Colonial Period.
From the ground floor we used the west staircase to go to the Old State Rooms.
The Old State Rooms were constructed during the Commonwealth of the Philippines. The rooms were in official use from the administration of President Manuel Quezon till that of President Ferdinand Marcos (1937-1987). Rooms were named after former presidents such as the Old President’s Office (Quezon Room) and the Old Council of State Room (Quirino Room).
Ivan pointed out some interesting features of the Old President’s Office such as the original iron vents for air conditioning located on the ceiling of old President’s Office. He said that this is the only room in the building that has an air-conditioning system when the building was constructed. Also in this room is the executive chair used by President Marcos when he declared Martial Law.
A Juan Flores wood panel depicting the First Mass hangs on a wall facing the Main Hall (or ballroom).
The Main Hall exhibits books, artworks and relics of past presidents. One interesting relic are two of the 1500 pairs of shoes of Imelda Marcos. Ivan led us to the veranda (window) were Marcos made his farewell before his years of exile in the US during the height of the 1986 EDSA Revolution. That ends our tour of Malacanang.
Fine-Dine Merienda at La Cocina de Tita Moning
Leaving Malacanang, we then walked towards our final stop, the Legarda Ancestral Mansion.
The Legrada Mansion houses the La Cocina ni Tita Moning. A private fine-dine restaurant. Dining in this classy restaurant requires calling in to make a reservation. We had a fine-dine merienda of paella, gallantina, a signature pudding for dessert and a lemon grass iced tea as refreshment. The table setting is complete with candles and rose petals sprinkled on top of the table. After the third serving, we are full.
While resting after that heavy merienda, Ivan mentioned some parts of the old itinerary of the San Miguel tour. The old tour includes the Abbey of the Our Lady of Monserrat, the spot where the San Miguel Brewery was once located, the San Miguel Church and other Presidential Guesthouses namely the Goldenberg Mansion and the Teus House (We visited these places. The original spot of San Miguel Brewery is now an empty lot. The two presidential guesthouses are off limits to the public).
The mansion has been preserved to its original state to give visitors a quick look into the life of a de buena familia along the old millionaire’s row.
The ground floor showcases a train room, a library, a doctor’s clinic and a room for photography equipment.
The second floor contains the living room, the dining room, a fancy dressing room and a radio room. On the living room walls hang the works of Juan Luna and Felix Ressurecion Hidalgo.
A three hour tour of San Miguel is not enough. There is much to learn in this area. We are glad that tours like this are made available through Old Manila Walks.
